Most days, the life of the freelance writer is an unenviable one: facing the blank screen every morning; hustling up a premise to latch onto; outlining an approach to same and then making with the felicitous syllables. Heavy lifting it most certainly is not, which is why I chose this solitary path, the life of the mind (or what's left of it), over bosses, offices, steam shovels and the like.
This particular morning is exceptional, however, as I sit at continent's edge in one of the world's most desirable locations – Big Sur, California, Henry Miller's old address – on the terrace of my room at the incomparable Post Ranch Inn. Now in its twentieth glorious year as a highest-end resort/spa, it ranks in my top three when it comes to travel destinations. Our building sits some 1,200 feet above the Pacific Ocean, which as I type, battles for sound-space with the outdoor, infinity soaking tub that burbles through the night.
Right now it's seven a.m and golden light starts to tint the cliffs as I look north toward the Monterey Peninsula. Last night, the same firmament was exploding with colors – purple, orange and blue – as the sun settled into the sea, followed by an explosion of silvery stars and the milk-white glow of Venus and Mars, which seemed close enough to touch.
One feels pinpoint-small gazing out at the cosmos and realizing that our proud solar system is but one of millions of such configurations. There must be a three-headed stooge 700 light-years away writing comparable drivel for his green-antenna'd readers, but I digress considerably. The subject was a short-list of places you must see, breathe in and experience before you join the stardust, and the Post Ranch Inn stands at the head of such a roster.
The forty exceedingly romantic guest rooms here are all constructed using recycled materials (even putting reclaimed wine-cask redwood staves to use!), giving the Inn a rough-hewn, natural look that belies its mere two decades perched on the edge of North America. Dinner last night at Sierra Mar was exquisite, from an intensely earthy mushroom risotto to a perfectly cooked rib-eye, and in a setting that would warm a dictator's heart. People on staff are warm and welcoming – and why wouldn't they be? They work in one of the most beautiful places on earth!
The spa menu is comprehensive – where else but mystical Big Sur (the Esalen Institute is just down Highway One a few miles) would you find "Shaman Sessions" and "Destiny Retrieval and Divination" alongside the usual body wraps, massages and facials? There are daily yoga classes, guided hikes and cooking classes for those who don't want to just cold chill, take in the surroundings and wish they could call this their permanent address. Even for one unforgettable night and day, the Post Ranch Inn stands alone – there is no place like it in the world.