Travel Destination: Scottsdale, Arizona

I was happily wearing my "golf-writer" cap last week in beautiful Scottsdale, Arizona — a so-called job that entails staying at luxury resorts, playing lots of golf and sampling some of the area's best food and drink. I know — tough life, but someone's gotta do it and it may as well be a spoiled adult brat like me, verdad?

The occasion was an amateur golf tournament sponsored by Waste Management, the same company whose inelegant name graces the PGA's Phoenix Open, which starts next weekend and has rightly been dubbed "the greatest show in golf." If you've never been to Scottsdale to witness this flagstick Bacchanal, tune in the flatscreen next weekend to at least experience it vicariously (CBS, 2/4-2/5, 3-6p ET). Scottsdale Open tournament competitors played three stunning layouts — Troon North Monument, Grayhawk Raptor and the fabled site of the Open, TPC Scottsdale.

The allure of the Phoenix Open is not just great golf but the young and inebriated masses (some 500K strong over four days) who temporarily transform the TPC Scottsdale golf grounds into a kind of up-market Woodstock, dressing to the yuppie nines and swilling beer and spirits like tomorrow will never dawn. At the infamous 16^th hole — a simple par 3 — tens of thousands of ASU-crazies boo bad shots like they were at the Roman Coliseum, and cheer great shots in like fashion. It has to be seen to be believed — very un-golf cultural, and yet thoroughly refreshing. 

TPC Scottsdale is just down the road from one of the area's finer family resorts — the Westin Kierland — which itself features 27 holes of eminently playable golf and is surrounded by fine dining  and high-end retailers. I myself gravitated toward the golf club's beautiful practice facility, where PGA pro Heath Morden gave me the hands-down, best hour-long lesson of my life. To boot, the breakfast at the adjacent gastropub, Brittlebush Bar & Grill, defied the pejorative label "golf course food." Scottish chef Graeme Blair's savory Short Rib Hash remains an indelible gustatory memory (For dessert, work off the calories with golf fitness guru-to-the-PGA-stars Steve Heller at his FORE-max golf training workout — he is a prince of a fellow for a sadist!).

Scottsdale is no stranger to fine dining these days, a point emphatically underscored by a visit to FnB Restaurant downtown. Chef Charleen Badman is behind every ladle of goodness at this locally-sourced eatery, while her partner Pavle Milic talks an enthusiastic blue streak as you order from the upscale comfort-food menu. The talented Ms. B. does some incredible Brussels sprouts with Spanish chorizo and sherry vinegar; a roast Jidori chicken with spaetzle, and lots of very good Arizona wines as accompaniment. Yes, Arizona — don't laugh until you've tried them! And a new restaurant, Cask 63, is handsomely appointed and enjoying fabulous word-of-mouth already. Amazing custom cocktails, too.

Even if you don't travel with golf clubs and polo shirts, Scottsdale is a wonderful year-round destination. The desert sunsets are spectacular, the air crisp and breathable (coming from LA, that's a big selling-point) and the culture vibrant and sophisticated. The people are a fine lot as well, always warm and welcoming. Start planning a trip today by visiting the Convention & Visitors Bureau website — those fine, knowledgeable folks will steer you right, whether you fancy spas, golf or hikes through the stunning scenery. Book it!